In Part 1 I told you how I got the idea for using discarded tissue boxes to simulate mosaics. Here are step-by-step instructions for you to use in creating your own Fausaic item. You don't have to use a birdhouse. You can use any wood substrate of your choosing. I find that cigar boxes, jewelry boxes, and picture frames work best. Don't be limited by my instructions. You could Fausaic your entire front door if you wanted to. Let your creative juices flow.
I find the thick color-printed glossy cardboard from tissue boxes works best. It gives a thicker "tile" to work with and the glossy surface creates a more realistic result. However, you can use any paper you want to use. There are many beautiful papers available at the craft and scrap-booking stores. They will provide you with a rich palette of colors, textures. The benefit of working with a pre-designed tissue box is that the designer has already selected and harmonized the color palette for you.
I use a glue stick for the setting the tiles. That way if you make a mistake and are quick to spot it, you can move or remove the offending tile. Use a brayer or just your hand and a clean piece of paper to set the tiles by pressing down firmly. Now that you know what is used to set the tiles, lets get started.
Note: Protect yourself. Wear a face mask and eye goggles when sanding.
| 1: Sand the substrate. You can find affordable sand paper at your local Dollar store and it works great. I use the fine sandpaper, but use whatever gives you the smoothest surface. You don't have to spend too much time sanding. Just get rid of the bumps, sharp edges and rough parts. You will sand again after painting. |  |
 | 2: Break down the tissue box. Cut into separate panels. Save the pieces as you may need tiny tiles to finish it off. Experiment with how you will layout the design. Based on this tissue box, I have cut some of the square panels in half to see how they could fit together to change it up and make it more interesting. |
| 3: Sand substrate after painting for a smooth surface. Lay the panels on the substrate to get an idea of where each panel will look and fit best. Decide where they will be placed. I decided to use the green box top for the front tiles. So, I've painted only the front yellow to provide a contrasting colored grout. |  |
 | 4: Depending on your design, you can leave some of the substrate uncovered. If you want to cover the entire birdhouse look around for other cardboard packaging to complete the palette. I found this palette needed some black to give it some pop. Luckily I had some Stash Tea Boxes in my recycle bin. |
| 5: This turquoise blue panel made me a bit nervous because it didn't seem to fit in with the rest of the color palette. But when I used the black and orange tiles to finish off the top, it was an easy choice to place the matching panel on that side of the house. This would ensure each side matched (see below). |  |
 | 6: This block design wouldn't allow any uncovered substrate. So, the shiny black cardboard on the Stash Tea box came in handy. Choosing a side panel in harmony with the design on the roof creates a more cohesive design. But you can't go wrong if you mix it up because the color palette works together. |
| 7: Have fun cutting tiles in interesting ways. I've found if the tiles are too big they may ripple under the Mod Podge and varnish. Each side has a completely different design and even a different color palette. Yet it all comes together in harmony thanks to the Tissue Box designer. |  |
 | 8: After the top and sides are done, use the remaining materials to design the front and back. I like to do the front in brickwork style. Key stoning around the hole adds a nice look. I like to use one color for the roof line and another set for the bottom front. Just have fun. |
| 9: I grabbed scraps to mosaic the bottom front. I started using leftover hot pink, alternating with other palette colors. Then I moved into using orange and yellow scraps. Sometimes a mistake can be a happy accident, like with the three tiny tiles close together to the left of the perch. The trick is to make it look like you meant to do it that way. |  |
 | 10: By now you are in the groove and don't want to stop. Tile the edges with tiny tiles. You can alternate colors. Or you may choose to use one color like I did on the front. It depends on the scraps. You may even want to tiny-tile the base too. One time I did triangles puzzled together in squares and it really looked great. |
| 11: When done with the mosaic phase, save the remaining scraps in an envelope and mark it with the project name. It will be handy if you ever need to make a repair. You will get a better result when you Mod Podge if you allow the newly glued section to dry and set. |  |
12: Finish off your masterpiece. Apply the Mod Podge quickly and liberally. Remember that it will dry clear. Get in between the grooves in what Mosaic Artists call the "joints" to make sure the cardboard edges are covered too. This will make them look like glass if you use the Glossy Mod Podge. Don't go over a spot too much or the paper may tear or come off with the brush. Brush down any globs or drips. Be careful that Mod Podge doesn't glob onto the sides you can't see when working. Allow to dry. Repeat with the varnish. Allow to dry. Now place it on an alter and enjoy the beauty you've created.
To see more examples of Fausaic, visit the Fausaic Art Gallery.
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